July 13, 2010

The Great Cover Up

I started adding the terrain to cover the return track. Using hot glue and cardboard strips I built up the contours.

There will be a rock cut at the choke point between the tracks. Then the hill will gradually flare to a shallow slope on both sides.
Here is a test train running under the ridge. My wife asked how I will make the hill removable.  I don't know exactly yet, but it will happen after the basic hard shell is on. Then I'll cut away the hatches and build up the lip to hold them in place....
or, I may trim away the blue sky board below the ridge. That would allow emergency access from behind and underneath the layout...
or I may just daylight the track for a brief section.

Accokeek Creek

At the far end I added Accokeek Creek. By adding Accokeek Creek, I will have included all the major water crossings from the prototype. This was the site of a 150 feet trestle bridge, but I didn't want to add another bridge, so I plan to install a culvert. Again I'll look to Crozet for inspiration and use a culvert design that he used on the C&O Mountain Subdivision. The white building shows the site of a future water mill. I am looking at several possible prototype structures to use in this spot.


  1. AnonymousJuly 13, 2010

    Would extruded foam be a better choice for the lift out?

  2. Maybe. I may use foam sheets to make the hatches and their supports.

  3. If you're going to do rock face, could you build the rock so that the rock is removable, but the dirt/grass/etc hides the crack? That probably means putting the castings in position with something to make them both strong and easy to remove. (I'd suggest that fibreglass wallboard repair tape as a great backing for the rock castings.)

    Just a thought...

  4. Normally I would not hesitate to make a removable scenery plug. I've done it several times before on previous modules and layout. Here is an example on my former Tenn Pass layout. http://alkemscalemodels.net/TennPass/InProgressGallery3/images/3North_Portal.jpg

    But in all my previous efforts, I was able to use thick forest to hide the gap. I won't have that opportunity here. So a different approach is required to look good and be functional.

  5. I think the 'hole in the backdrop' is a good approach... saves you from having to match up scenery lines and worrying about futzing up things when you pop a hatch in and out. Of course, you could also get one of those reach extenders that seniors use to get that pesky can of beans from the top shelf...