A journal following the history, design, construction and operation of Bernard Kempinski's O Scale model railroad depicting the U. S. Military Railroad (USMRR) Aquia-Falmouth line in 1863, and other model railroad projects.
©Bernard Kempinski All text and images, except as noted, on this blog are copyrighted by the author and may not be used without permission.
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October 11, 2020

Scratch Building a Locomotive

USMRR crew show the result of battle damage on engine Leach

I am finally able to sit at my computer and get some work done. So, inspired by Eric Gates presentation at the ACWRRHS Zoom conference last week, I decided to proceed with a long desired modeling task - scratch building a locomotive.  My objectives are two fold- one, I relish the challenge of building the model, and two, I hope to build a locomotive that runs well and quietly.  Some of my current locomotives have noisy gearboxes. The noise is not as evident during op sessions, but is readily apparent when I record videos. To achieve those two objectives means that I am going to try some type of equalized suspension so that the loco can handle my rough track work.  I also plan to use a high quality gearbox from Slaters that I hope will run  quietly. If you never heard of Slaters, they are one of the major players in the British model railroad hobby industry. They offer a wide variety of parts for people looking to build a locomotive from scratch. When it comes to scratch building or just assembling kits of locomotives or cars, the British are orders of magnitude ahead of U.S. hobbyists. I hope to benefit from their experience.

The first step is deciding what to model. My eventual goal is to build a model of the 0-8-0 Washington flexible beam engine built by Baldwin. I have discussed this model on my blog previously such as here. However, I feel that might be too complex a model to try as my first engine scratch building experiment. So, instead I am looking at building the 4-4-0 Leach as shown in the photo above. The reasons for selecting Leach include it ran on the Aquia Line in the period I model, it's a chunky 4-4-0 with room for a 18mm diameter can motor in the boiler-firebox, and we have at least 3 photos of the engine. Also, John Ott, noted early rail locomotive expert,  sent me some photos of other New Jersey Locomotive and Machine Works engines that have similar details.


The actual Leach weighed 56,000 pounds, had 56 inch drivers, 16.5 inch cylinders, 24 inch stroke, 865 square feet heating surface,  a 1900 gallon tender, and a fairly large boiler judging by the photos. It is definitely one of the bigger 4-4-0s in USMRR service.  

In trying to decide what driver wheels I should order I discovered an odd fact. My existing SMR locomotive models are built to 1:45 scale, not 1:48, at least based on measurements of their actual drivers as modeled.  That scale ratio coincides with the scale of the track, that is, if you divide 4'8.5 inches by the 1.25 inch gauge of O Scale track you get a ratio of 1/45.2 The following table shows the data and calculations from my measurements.   I always suspected that the locomotives were a bit bigger than O scale, but I never systematically measured them. The difference is only 6 percent, but it is there.  I once asked Dave Schneider about this years ago and he said, they were built to 1/48. But the numbers support a different conclusion.  I suspect the builders made the models to be properly proportioned on O gauge track. This is a happy accident as I can now claim that my model railroad is built to the proper gauge. Also, it means that  British 7mm and 40mm scale war gaming model figures are closer to scale.




I selected the Slaters 7855A7 4'7" 15-spoke driver for my model. The 4'7" is computed at British 7mm scale or 1/43.5. So that makes the wheel have an actual diameter of 1.26 inches, about 0.02 inch larger diameter than a 56" driver at 1/45 scale.  Leach had a 16 spoke driver, but no manufacturer offers that driver in 1.25 inch diameter. I do have a set of Slaters 16 spoke driver with a diameter of 1.33 inches. Too big to use on Leach. The Slaters drivers have an ingenious squared axle design that makes quartering the wheel sets trivial. The drivers are secured to the axle ends with an allen screw, so disassembly for repairs is easy.  The drivers have insulated spokes making electrical issues simpler too. These British guys have this stuff figured out! 

 Next, I used the scale drawings of the Slaters gearboxes and motors superimposed on the photo of Leach to see if they would fit in the loco. Unlike many other small manufacturers, Slaters provides excellent scale drawings of their gearboxes and motor drives. It looks like there is plenty of room. 

So I ordered the parts needed. Next step will be to make the drawings based on the actual dimensions of the wheels and gearbox when they arrive. I may try to etch the major pieces for the model as I don't have a milling machine to make my own. I do have a lathe and two drill presses.  
I should mention that I already have a complete brass tender for this locomotive. It is an extra model that I got from SMR trains a few years ago for this task. It scales nearly perfectly to Leach's tender. 

A Slaters 1.33 inch 16-spoke driver in front of the extra brass tender. In the
background is the SMR Osceola
You might have noticed a change to my blog. The template I was using was several years old. I had customized it. Unfortunately, it was getting incompatible with the new Blogger. So I had to update to this new format. Hopefully it's more readable. 

9 comments:

  1. Good luck, Bernie! Leach is quite a project and I look forward to “looking over your shoulder” frequently as you progress. Will you be working on the layout changes again soon?

    One comment about the new format - I like that the archive now has the newest entries first.

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  2. Might be worthwhile to lasercut the frames. Etching is great for plate frames of UK prototypes, but the bar frames of the US have a chunkyness that might make lasercutting better.

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    Replies
    1. I plan to laser cut the prototype parts for test fit. If they work out I can use them or proceed with etching. I’m
      Probably going to want to etch some of the valve gear and detail parts, so doing the frame would not add that much.

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  3. Good luck! Scratchbuilding a steam locomotive (or any locomotive for that matter) is a rewarding experience.

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  4. Bernie,

    It's great to have new posts to read, thank you. I was curious, you mentioned your track is rough, is this because the prototypes was rough & you modeled in kind, or due the challenges of perfecting hand laid track?

    Jeff

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    Replies
    1. Good question. Alas, I am not very good at track laying. The new section is better, but I have some kinks and dips in other places. I have been tweaking and adjusting and things run pretty well but not perfect.

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    2. From what I can see the biggest challenge is equal pressure driving the spikes to the rail remains flat. And the other is dealing with keeping the
      rail in gauge while one wrestles the other rail in place.

      While expensive the fast tracks templates seem a good way to go. I know in Sn3 the flextrack is pretty stiff, so handlaid might be the better choice. I will cross that bridge when it comes up.

      The HO & N scale folks have the Central Valley products, & the Proto 87 site
      has a lot of great information about model & prototype track. Its facinating
      stuff

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    3. Keeping the track in gauge isn't an issue for me. The main problem I had was slight, almost imperceptible kinks and changes in radii on curves. I've been using templates to reduce those and I've done well in eliminating them. I don't like soldering track to ties as that causes all kinds of problems with humidity changes. I did that on my N scale layout and the results were not good. On teh Aquia Line I use 4 spikes per tie, so my rail can expand with the wood benchwork, and it is amazingly strong.

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  5. I was thinking for hand laid track, or any system for that matter, it would be helpful to run the rail through a rail bender tool to the desired radius to relieve and stresses in the rail. I think that is where the tendency to kink come from.

    I wonder if rail joints are only soldered on curves and expansion gaps on straight track only to allow for movement. I have read some articles about sealing the sub roadbed & even the benchwork lumber would reduce any expansion in the benchwork.
    These are things I am anxious to try when I have the opportunity.

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