Many thanks to all of you that expressed sympathy on the passing of my mom. It's been a rough stretch, but getting back into my modeling projects has been a good tonic. So I'm back in the shop, well actually mostly on the computer, as I restart work on the locomotive. The locomotive build project and techniques I plan to use on it are evolving as I work on it.
First, last month I purchased a Anycubic Photon 3D resin printer on sale. The price was less than $200. I also got their wash and cure machine, a few bottles of resin, some rubber gloves and alcohol. So I started dabbling in some 3D printing.
Since I am mostly interested in printing items that I can use on my railroad, I'm pretty much stuck learning how to do 3D drafting as very few fine scale models of civil war era stuff are available. I had a little prior experience with 3D drafting, but I needed to learn a lot more to be proficient. The best way to learn is by doing, so I dove in.
First useful parts from the 3D printer |
As I discussed a few posts ago, I was planning on laser cutting the frame side rails along with some other parts from metal using a outside service. I still plan to do that for the drive rods and some of the valve gear. But, I think I will have the frame and the cylinders 3D printed in metal from Shapeways. Various folks have reported good success in printing locomotive parts in brass. Unfortunately, my frame is too large for their brass 3D printing process. I could cut the frame in parts and solder them together, but I think I will try make the frame in some other 3D printed metal. Shapeways makes their parts in brass using a lost wax process. They also have other techniques for printing steel (actually a steel-bronze matrix) and many other materials. The metal prints tend to be much more expensive than plastic and it looks like their surface texture is not as good, so I need to tread carefully here.
One of the reasons for opting for 3D printing, is I decided to draw the locomotive, or at least most of the critical dimensioned parts in Fusion360. Since I was creating the 3D file, I thought it might be fun to try printing several of the parts.
Be careful with Shapeways printed metals.
ReplyDeleteThey are not dimensionally reliable and I wouldnt trust them for determining something as important as the driving wheelbase, especially with rods being lasercut. The brass is fairly reliable with a 5% shrinkrate on most shapes but the sintered metals are a little weirder. They are machinable however of what Ive heard, so you could always do the frames with the journal horns raw and machine to finished dimensions for accuracy.
The CAD views are looking good. Im rather envious of that simple barrel firebox. Figuring out tapered cone dimensions was not a fun exercise.